SERVES 6 – 8

Gumbos are a staple of Acadian cuisine, evolving over many years—and in many different kitchens—as new ingredients and techniques enlivened generations-old recipes. For body, this gumbo is thickened at the last possible minute with filé powder (ground sassafras leaves).

3⁄4 cup vegetable oil
3⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup finely chopped onion
1⁄2 cup finely chopped green bell pepper
1⁄2 cup finely chopped celery
6 cups hot Double-Rich Fish Stock
1 tsp. salt
1⁄2 tsp. cayenne
1 lb. medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 pint or more shucked raw oysters and their liquor
1 lb. lump crabmeat
2 tbsp. finely chopped scallions
1 tbsp. finely chopped parsley
1⁄4 cup filé powder

1. Make a dark brown roux with the oil and flour.

2. Raise heat. Add onions, peppers, and celery; cook until tender, about 15 minutes.

3. Add hot stock in a thin stream, stirring constantly. (Take care not to add the stock too quickly or at too low a temperature, or the roux will separate.) Add salt and cayenne and bring to a simmer, stirring frequently. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 1 hour.

4. Add shrimp, oysters, and crab, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes more. Stir in scallions and parsley. Stir in filé powder at the table to thicken gumbo. Serve with white rice.