MAKES 8 CUPS

Spisni, who owns a cooking school in Bologna, makes her ragù in large batches. "Real ragù alla bolognese should cook for a long time," says Spisni, "so it isn't convenient to prepare it for only four people."

1⁄2 cup lard
3 small yellow onions, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
2 lbs. ground beef chuck
1⁄2 cup dry red wine
2 3⁄4 cups canned tomato purée
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper,
   to taste
Homemade Tagliatelle

1. Heat lard in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add onions, carrots, and celery and cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables are somewhat softened, about 8 minutes.

2. Raise heat to medium-high, add beef, and cook, stirring constantly, until meat is broken up and just cooked through, 6–8 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until evaporated, about 4 minutes. Stir in tomato purée and 1 1⁄2 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat.

3. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick, about 2 hours. Season with salt and pepper. Toss with fresh tagliatelle or the pasta of your choice, or use in lasagne. Serve with grated parmigiano-reggiano.