SERVES 6

Apple hat, named for its shape when unmolded, is among the especially plentiful and esteemed family of English apple puddings.

2 cups flour
2 tsp. baking powder
Pinch salt
1 cup shredded fresh beef suet (see Skinny On Suet)
3 large tart apples, such as granny smith
1⁄4 cup raisins
1⁄2 cup light brown sugar
Pinch ground cloves
Pinch ground cinnamon
Pinch ground ginger
Juice of 1⁄2 lemon
4 tbsp. butter, cut into small pieces
1 tbsp. clotted cream or whipped cream
   (optional)

1. Sift flour, baking powder, and salt together into a large bowl. Add suet and, with a wooden spoon, stir in just enough cold water (about 1⁄2 cup) to hold dough together. Shape about a third of the dough into a ball, then shape remaining dough into a larger ball. Wrap both balls of dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

2. Peel, core, and slice apples, then place in a large bowl and toss well with raisins, brown sugar, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, and lemon juice. Grease a 5-cup ovenproof bowl or pudding basin. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out larger ball into a 12" round, then ease into bowl, pressing to fit snugly. Spoon in apple filling and dot with butter.

3. On a floured work surface, roll out remaining dough into a 7" round and place on top of filling. Dampen edges with water and pinch crust together with your fingers to seal. Cover loosely with a 9" piece of aluminum foil (allowing room for pudding to expand) and tie in place with kitchen string.

4. Place bowl in a large pot. Add enough water to come halfway up side of bowl. Cover and simmer over medium heat for 3 hours. Remove bowl, cool slightly, then remove foil. Invert pudding onto a platter. Serve warm in individual bowls with additional brown sugar and cream, if desired.