(Cretons de Tante Marie)

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

Cretons is similar to rillettes, the pâté-like French mixture of pounded meat and seasoned fat, but has a crumbly texture. Michel Careau, of La Ferme Enchantée restaurant, gave us his aunt Marie's recipe.

1 1/4 lbs. pork shoulder or rump, cubed
1/2 lb. veal shoulder, cubed
1 small yellow onion, peeled and chopped
1/2 lb. salt pork, finely chopped
1/4 tsp. ground cloves
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Use a sharp cleaver or large sharp knife to finely chop pork and veal to the texture of coarsely ground meat.

2. Put chopped meat into a large pot, add onions and 1 1/2 cups water, and cook over medium heat until liquid has evaporated and meat begins to fry, about 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, put salt pork into a small saucepan, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until fat is rendered and salt pork is golden, about 30 minutes.

4. Add salt pork and rendered fat to meat mixture; then add cloves and cinnamon, and season to taste with pepper. Transfer to a crock with a cover, and set aside to let cool to room temperature. Cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Serve spread on toasted country bread, if you like.