This simple dish is a great way to cook crab; black pepper adds an extra kick.

2  1 1⁄2-lb. dungeness crabs
3 tbsp. vegetable oil
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 tbsp. peeled and finely chopped fresh ginger
4 thai or green serrano chiles, seeded and finely chopped
2 tbsp. oyster sauce
2 tbsp. dark soy sauce
2 tbsp. thin soy sauce
1 tbsp. sugar
2 tbsp. coarsely ground black pepper
Fresh cilantro leaves

1. Boil a large pot of water over high heat; add crabs and boil 5 minutes. Remove and cool. Turn each crab on its back; lift and remove apron (it should bring the intestinal tube with it). Remove and discard fuzzy gills on both sides and creamy, yellow tomalley in the center. Cut body in half and pull off legs. Crack legs and claws at the joints with a nutcracker.

2. Heat oil in a wok or a large skillet over high heat. Sauté crab pieces 2 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside.

3. Turn down heat to medium; add garlic, ginger, and chiles. Cook 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Add oyster sauce, dark soy sauce, thin soy sauce, and sugar. Reduce heat to low and simmer 30 seconds.

4. Add pepper and return crab to wok; stir until coated with sauce. Serve garnished with cilantro.