SERVES 4

In place of barley, some versions of this soup use farro—a term that, in Italy, can refer to spelt, emmer wheat, or einkorn, all early ancestors of wheat.

1/2 lb. dried cranberry beans, soaked overnight
   in water, then drained
1/4 lb. pearl barley
1/4 lb. pancetta, finely chopped
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 potato, peeled and cut into 1/2'' cubes
1 stalk celery, diced
1/2 bunch fresh parsley, finely chopped
Leaves from 1 sprig fresh rosemary, finely chopped
6 fresh basil leaves, finely chopped
4 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Combine beans, barley, pancetta, onions, potatoes, celery, parsley, rosemary, basil, sage, and bay leaf in a large heavy pot and cover with water by 2''. Simmer over medium-low heat until beans and barley are tender and soup is thick, about 2 hours, adding more water if soup gets too thick. Remove bay leaf before serving. Season to taste with salt and plenty of pepper.