SERVES 4

Wild Celery is sold in Asian markets as kun choi or kin tsai. Veneris uses a mild fish—such as dorade (gilt-head bream)—for this dish.

1 2-3 lb. whole dorade, cleaned and scaled
1-2 lemons, halved
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large bunch wild celery, trimmed and
   cut into 3'' lengths

1. Put fish on a plate; squeeze juice from 1 lemon half over fish. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and allow to marinate for 30 minutes.

2. Heat oil in a large deep skillet over medium-low heat. Add celery, cover, and cook until color turns from bright to olive green, about 15 minutes. Lay fish on top of celery, add 1 cup of water, cover, and simmer until fish is cooked through and celery is tender, about 20 minutes more. Carefully slide celery and fish out of skillet onto a serving platter and spoon broth over fish. Squeeze additional lemon juice over fish, if you like.