SERVES 6

This comparatively light green bean dish is mildly creamy, thanks to a quick blanching in milk, which also sweetens and mellows the beans.

4 cups milk
2 tbsp. kosher salt, plus more
   for seasoning
2 tbsp. sugar
2 lbs. green beans
1⁄3 lb. pancetta, diced
3 tbsp. unsalted butter
4 tbsp. chopped mint
4 tbsp. chopped parsley
Freshly ground black pepper
1⁄4 cup toasted chopped hazelnuts

1. Bring milk, 4 cups water, 2 tbsp. of kosher salt, and sugar to a boil in a 6-qt. saucepan.

2. Trim green beans and add to saucepan; cook until crisp–tender, 5–6 minutes. Drain, reserving 1⁄3 cup cooking liquid. Chill beans in ice water. Drain; set aside.

3. Meanwhile, combine pancetta and 1 1⁄2 cups water in a 12" skillet; cook over medium heat until water evaporates and pancetta crisps, about 25 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to a plate, leaving 1 tbsp. fat in skillet. Place skillet over high heat and add beans and reserved cooking liquid; cook until liquid evaporates, about 5 minutes.

4. Add butter and 2 tbsp. each chopped mint and parsley. Cook until butter melts. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a platter; sprinkle with pancetta, hazelnuts, and remaining chopped mint and parsley.