MAKES 2  16-OZ. JARS

In small southern Italian villages, "putting up" food may be a time-consuming task, but it's a way of life—as the villagers themselves would say, "It's what we do."

Extra-virgin olive oil
5 long strips orange rind
6 sprigs wild or bulb fennel leaves
1 tbsp. fennel seeds
6 cloves garlic, peeled
2 small Italian-style red peppers, medium-hot
2 cups brine-cured green Italian olives, unpitted

1. Heat 1⁄4 cup olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add orange rind, fennel leaves and seeds, garlic, and peppers, and cook over medium heat for about 4 minutes. Add olives and cook 1 minute longer.

2. Rinse two 16-oz. glass jars with tight-fitting lids in very hot water. Dry jar and lids thoroughly, then fill jars about 4⁄5 full with olive mixture. Cover olives completely with more olive oil, then cover jars loosely with lids and allow to cool to room temperature. Seal jars tightly and store in the refrigerator for at least 2 weeks before eating. Olives will keep for 2–3 months refrigerated.