(Manzo ai Ferri)

SERVES 6

Skirt steak (the cut correctly used for fajitas in the Southwest) is related to flank steak but is slightly fattier and considerably more tender.

3  1-lb. skirt steaks, each trimmed and halved crosswise
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 medium shallots (unpeeled)
20 fresh hot red chiles, preferably fresno chiles
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Preheat a charcoal grill. Meanwhile, generously season both sides of steaks with salt and pepper, and refrigerate until ready to grill.

2. Grill shallots in their skins over medium-hot coals until soft when pierced, 15–20 minutes. Meanwhile, grill chiles over same coals, turning often and moving them to edge of grill if they are coloring too quickly, until lightly browned and soft all over, 15–20 minutes. Transfer shallots and chiles to a plate as done and set aside until cool enough to handle. Stem chiles, then slice crosswise. (If you're not used to working with chiles, wear rubber gloves when you handle them.) Put chiles and any juices into a small bowl and add oil. Peel shallots, cut into 1/2"-thick slices, and mix into chiles and oil.

3. Grill steaks over medium-hot coals, about 2 minutes per side for medium rare for thinner steaks and about 3 minutes per side for thicker ones. Let steaks rest for 5 minutes. Put 1 steak on each plate and spoon chiles, shallots, and oil over each one. Serve on a bed of dandelion greens or other bitter greens, if you like.