This version of macaroni and cheese, from the South Side restaurant Helen's, is made richer by the addition of evaporated milk.

17 tbsp. butter (melting 16 tbsp.)
1 1⁄2 lbs. dried elbow macaroni
7 lightly packed cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese
2 cups canned evaporated milk
2 tbsp. sugar
Salt and freshly ground white pepper

1. Heat oven to 400°. Grease a rectangular 4-quart casserole dish with 1 tbsp. of the butter and set aside. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add macaroni and cook until soft, 8–10 minutes. Drain and rinse macaroni under cold water.

2. Transfer rinsed macaroni to a large bowl. Add 5 1⁄2 cups of the cheese, evaporated milk, 16 tbsp. of melted butter, sugar, and salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste. Stir the macaroni mixture well; transfer the mixture to the prepared casserole dish and spread out evenly with a spatula.

3. Top with remaining 1 1⁄2 cups cheese; bake until hot throughout and light golden brown on top, about 20 minutes. Set aside to let rest for 10 minutes, then serve.