SERVES 4

In the old days in Beverly Hills, this lamb dish was served as a main course, with five or six pieces of meat on each skewer. We use it here as an appetizer.

FOR THE LAMB:
3 tbsp. canola oil
1 tbsp. finely chopped celery
1 tbsp. finely chopped peeled yellow onion
1 small garlic clove, peeled and minced
1 bay leaf
2 tsp. white vinegar
2 tsp. honey
2 tsp. Trader Vic's sate spice
   (see www.tradervics.com)
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1⁄4 tsp. fresh oregano leaves
Freshly ground white pepper
1  1-lb. piece boneless lamb leg,
   fat and sinew trimmed, cut in to 24 pieces,
   1⁄2" × 1 1⁄2" × 2"
Salt

FOR THE SAUCE:
1⁄4 cup creamy peanut butter
3 tbsp. unsweetened canned coconut milk
3 tbsp. butter, softened
1 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp. tomato-based chile sauce

1. For the lamb: Combine oil, celery, onions, garlic, bay leaf, vinegar, honey, sate spice, lemon juice and zest, oregano, and pepper to taste in a medium glass or ceramic bowl. Add lamb, cover, and let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours. Skewer each piece of lamb onto a wooden skewer, then discard marinade.

2. For the sauce: Puree peanut butter, coconut milk, butter, soy sauce, lemon juice, and chile sauce together in a blender until smooth. Transfer to a small heavy pot and heat, stirring frequently, until glossy and warm, about 1 minute. Set sauce aside.

3. Heat a well-seasoned grill pan over high heat. Season lamb with salt and pepper and grill until browned on each side, 45-60 seconds per side for medium rare.