MAKES 2

Here is Jacques Pepin's French twist on New England's classic lobster roll— sans mayo, but bathed in warm butter with lots of fresh tarragon—which we adapted from Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home (Knopf, 1999).

8 tbsp. butter
2 split-top hot dog rolls
1 tbsp. fresh tarragon, chopped
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2  1 1⁄2-lb. lobsters, cooked and chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Lettuce leaves

1. Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat. Brush insides and outsides of hot dog rolls with some of the butter; brown on both sides in a skillet over medium heat.

2. Add tarragon and lemon juice to saucepan, season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and add lobster meat. Heat until just warmed through.

3. Tuck 2 lettuce leaves into each roll, fill with lobster, and spoon butter on top.