MAKES 6

This dish is based on a famous Cantonese recipe for squab.

5 Chinese dried black mushrooms
1/2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breast
1/2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs
3 tbsp. peanut oil
1 tsp. minced peeled ginger
1 tbsp. shaoxing (Chinese rice wine)
Freshly ground white pepper
1 oz. Virginia ham, minced
1 tbsp. oyster sauce
2 scallions, white part only, trimmed and minced
1/2 cup drained whole canned water chestnuts,
   finely chopped
6 iceberg or bibb lettuce leaves

1. Soak mushrooms in a medium bowl of hot water, covered, until soft, about 1 hour. Meanwhile, finely chop chicken breast and thighs with a sharp cleaver or knife and set aside. Remove mushrooms from soaking water and trim off stems. (Discard water and stems; see Snipping Shrooms.) Finely chop caps and set aside.

2. Heat oil in a wok or nonstick skillet over high heat. Add ginger and stir-fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add chopped chicken and stir-fry, breaking meat up with a metal spatula, until no longer raw, about 1 minute. Add shaoxing, season to taste with white pepper, then add ham, mushrooms, and oyster sauce and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add scallions and chestnuts. Spoon chicken mixture into lettuce leaves.