MAKES 32 NACHOS

In the 1950s, pickled jalapeños were sold whole or in strips; the now-familiar rings became available, not coincidentally, after nachos gained national popularity. Today, supermarkets offer an array of tortilla chips, shredded cheeses, and salsas, all intended to ease preparation of this Tex-Mex classic. This recipe brings us back to the joys of a simpler nacho.

8 yellow corn tortillas
Vegetable oil
Salt
1/2 lb. (about 2 cups) monterey jack cheese
1 Jar of pickled jalapeños

1. Preheat the broiler.

2. To make the chips, cut tortillas into quarters. Heat 1"–2" of vegetable oil in a deep skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, fry chips in batches until they are brown and crisp, about 1 minute. Drain on paper towels, then sprinkle with salt.

3. Grate cheese. Place chips in a single layer on a cookie sheet, then sprinkle with cheese. Broil until cheese melts and begins to brown. Remove from oven and top each chip with 1–2 slices of pickled jalapeño. Transfer to a large plate and serve.