(Pommes Pont Neuf)

SERVES 4

We enjoyed these potatoes at Chez Clovis, named for Paris's Pont Neuf ("New Bridge"—in fact the city's oldest one), where, it is said, pommes frites used to be sold.

3 lbs. medium white potatoes
Vegetable oil
Salt

1. Peel potatoes. Square off ends, then cut lengthwise into 4–6 wedges.

2. Pour oil into a large, deep skillet to a depth of 2". Heat oil to 350° on a candy thermometer, over medium-high heat. Add potatoes and fry, stirring occasionally to keep them from sticking together, until golden and tender when pierced with a skewer, 12–15 minutes.

3. Transfer potatoes with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Season to taste with salt.