MAKES 5 HALF PINTS

This recipe yields more than enough chutney for anyone without ancestral ties to it. It can be served with everything from tuna fish sandwiches to grilled duck breast and quail.

1 1⁄4 cups granulated sugar
1 1⁄4 cups light brown sugar
1 cup cider vinegar
1 1⁄2 cups golden raisins
1 small onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1⁄3 cup grated peeled ginger
3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tbsp. salt
4 1⁄2 tsp. mustard seeds
2 1⁄2 tsp. red pepper flakes
4 lbs. Italian prune plums, pitted and quartered

1. Bring sugars and vinegar to a boil in a heavy medium pot over medium heat. Stir in raisins, onions, ginger, garlic, salt, mustard seeds, and pepper flakes. Bring to a simmer. Stir in plums. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until chutney is dark and thick, about 3 3⁄4 hours.

2. Sterilize five 8-oz. canning jars, their lids and ring bands, and a widemouthed funnel in a large pot of boiling water for 10 minutes, then transfer them to a clean dish towel. Using the funnel, fill each jar with hot chutney to no more than 1⁄4" from rim. Wipe rims, place lids on jars, then screw on ring bands.

3. Using jar tongs, submerge filled jars in pot of gently boiling water (jars should be covered by a least 1" of water) and process for 10 minutes. Transfer jars to a dish towel at least 1" apart; let cool undisturbed for 24 hours. Test jars for a proper seal: press on center of each lid and remove your finger; if lid stays down, it's sealed.

4. Refrigerate any chutney that hasn't been sealed and use within 4 weeks.