MAKES ABOUT 10 PANCAKES

In the Dordogne, the Truscotts chose local Trappist cheese for this traditional recipe. The author suggests using Port-Salut, or another semisoft cheese, in the U.S. These pancakes are crispy outside and surprisingly smoky and creamy inside.

1/4 lb. sliced bacon
2 medium Idaho potatoes, peeled
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1/4 lb. Port-Salut or other semisoft cheese,
   coarsely grated
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 tbsp. flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup goose or bacon fat

1. Place bacon in a large skillet and cook over medium heat, turning once, until crisp, about 10 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

2. Crumble bacon into a large bowl. Coarsely grate potatoes into bowl, then, working quickly so that potatoes don't discolor, mix in garlic, cheese, egg, and flour. Season with salt and pepper and mix thoroughly.

3. Heat fat in a large skillet over medium heat. Form potato mixture into pancakes  about 2'' in diameter, squeezing out any excess moisture. Cook in batches until golden, about 4 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and serve warm.