(Membrillo)

Versions of this confection can be found around the world. In the Orléanais region of France, quince paste, called cotignac, is cut into squares and dusted with sugar. This Spanish interpretation, however, is typically served with cheese.

3 lbs. quinces
2 cups sugar

1. Peel, core, and quarter quinces. Wrap peels and cores in cheesecloth and tie into a bundle, then place with quinces, sugar, and 2 tbsp. water in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and poach, stirring occasionally, until quinces are very soft, about 1 1⁄2 hours. Remove pan from heat, discard peels and cores, and cool.

2. Preheat oven to 175°. Purée mixture in a food processor, transfer to a small loaf pan, about 8" × 4", and dry in oven until firm, about 15 hours. (Drying can be spread over a few days.) Serve with a sheep's-milk cheese (like manchego) or an English cheddar. (Store in an airtight container.)