Tart red cabbage dishes are common in Pennsylvania Dutch cookery, but this version comes from Hungarian-born restaurant critic Egon Ronay.

1⁄4 lb. smoked slab bacon, diced
1 medium red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 large head red cabbage, cored and shredded
2 tsp. caraway seeds
1 bay leaf
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 1⁄4 cups dry white wine
1 tbsp. honey
1⁄4 cup white wine vinegar

1. Cook bacon in a large deep skillet over low heat until crisp, about 10 minutes. Increase heat to medium-low, add onions, and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft, about 20 minutes.

2. Add cabbage and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, then add caraway seeds, bay leaf, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Increase heat to medium; add wine, honey, and vinegar; and simmer, stirring occasionally, until cabbage is soft and cooking liquid has evaporated, about 1 hour. (Add water if liquid evaporates too quickly and cabbage begins to stick to skillet.)

3. Remove cabbage mixture from heat, transfer to a large bowl, cover, and refrigerate overnight to allow flavors to blend. To serve, warm cabbage mixture over low heat, adjusting seasoning with salt, pepper, and vinegar if necessary.