SERVES 4

Made according to a recipe that appeared in hash aficionado James Beard's American Cookery (Little, Brown, 1972), this savory hash transforms leftovers into an elegant breakfast.

1/4 cup beef drippings or canola oil
2 cups boiled and cooled yukon gold potatoes,
   cut into ¼" cubes
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cups cold roast beef, cut into ¼" cubes
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp. fresh thyme, finely chopped
1/8 tsp. cayenne
1/8 tsp. ground nutmeg
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper,
   to taste
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 tbsp. chopped parsley

1. In a 12" skillet, heat beef drippings or oil over medium-high heat. Add potatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 8–10 minutes. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 10 minutes. Add beef, garlic, thyme, cayenne, and nutmeg; cook, stirring occasionally, until beef browns, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

2. Add heavy cream, stir to combine, and press hash down into the skillet with a metal spatula. Increase heat to medium-high and cook, turning hash in parts every 2 minutes, loosening any browned bits, until the cream has reduced and hash forms a crust, about 10 minutes. Garnish with parsley and serve hot with fried or poached eggs, if you like.