The traditional version of Nice's classic salad uses no lettuce, no cooked vegetables, no vinegar. And remember that the Niçois would never dream of making their salad with fresh tuna: This is a dish based on preserved fish.

4 ripe tomatoes, sliced
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely
   chopped
8 radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced
3  4-oz. cans oil-packed top-quality tuna, well drained
4 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and quartered
8 anchovies
4 fresh chives, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1⁄2 cup niçoise olives
Extra-virgin olive oil, preferably French

1. Divide tomatoes, bell peppers, radishes, tuna, and eggs equally among four plates, arranging them attractively, working from the outside in.

2. Garnish each plate with 2 anchovy filets. Sprinkle with chives and season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Scatter olives evenly over the salads and drizzle with olive oil just before serving.