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Jun Takagi
 
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Shrimp in Caul Fat
 
SERVES 4

Hsia-chuan

Milkfish is available at Chinese markets.

1/2 lb. milkfish or gray mullet filets, skinned and coarsely chopped
Salt
1 lb. medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, and coarsely chopped
6 canned water chestnuts, drained and minced
5 sprigs cilantro, finely minced
4 scallions, trimmed and finely minced
1 tbsp. Asian sesame oil
Freshly ground white pepper
I lb. caul fat, cut into eight 5" x 6" sheets
2 tbsp. cornstarch
1 lb. lard
1/2 cup sweet potato flour
1/8 tsp. ground anise
2 eggs, lightly beaten

1. Put fish and 2–3 pinches salt into a food processor. Gradually add 2 tbsp. ice water through feed tube in lid of processor while motor is running, until a thick paste forms. Transfer to a medium bowl. Add shrimp, water chestnuts, cilantro, scallions, oil, and salt and pepper to taste and mix well.

2. Spread 1 sheet of fat out on a clean surface with short ends perpendicular to you. Form one-eighth of the shrimp filling into a 5" cylinder and put in center of caul fat parallel to you. Roll fat around filling, folding in sides halfway through, then sprinkle a little cornstarch on edge of fat farthest from you, moisten with a little water, and press to seal shut. Repeat process with remaining fat and filling.

3. Heat lard in a deep medium pot over medium heat until temperature reaches 360° on a candy thermometer. Meanwhile, combine sweet potato flour, anise, and 1/4 tsp. pepper in a shallow bowl. Working in batches, dip  shrimp rolls into eggs, dredge in flour mixture, then deep fry until golden all over, 5-6 minutes per batch. Drain on paper towels. Slice shrimp rolls on the bias and serve hot with hoisin sauce and prepared wasabi or with wedges of lime, if you like.

 
This recipe was first published in Saveur in Issue #73
 
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