SERVES 4

Over the centuries, Chinese chefs have developed numerous noodle-making techniques. One Cantonese method is to roll pieces of rice noodle dough to form the ''silver pin noodles'' called for here. Noodles tend to stick together, so cook in 2 batches.

8 scallions
4 skinned and boned chicken thighs
4 tbsp. vegetable oil 
1 lb. nen dzem fen (fresh silver pin noodles)
1/2 cup light soy sauce
2 tbsp. dark soy sauce
Several grinds of black pepper

1. Julienne white parts of 8 scallions. Thinly slice 4 skinned and boned chicken thighs.

2. For each batch, heat 2 tbsp. vegetable oil in a wok over high heat. Add half the scallions and half the chicken and stir-fry until chicken turns opaque, about 2 minutes.

3. Stir in 1/2 lb. nen dzem fen (fresh silver pin noodles), 1/4 cup light soy sauce, 1 tbsp. dark soy sauce, and a few grinds of black pepper. Cook until noodles are heated through, about 5 minutes. Transfer to 2 plates. Repeat for second batch.