SERVES 4

In the Ireland of old, fish and shellfish, especially the latter, were so inexpensive that they were often considered the food of the poor. In the 18th century, posted notices advertised you could get a beer for twopence and salmon and lobster for nothing.

4  8-oz. salmon filets
6 medium white potatoes (about 3 lbs.), peeled and
   quartered
1⁄2 cup heavy cream
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
4 tbsp. unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups Pickled Chanterelles, drained
1 tbsp. balsamic vinegar
6 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and finely diced
2 tbsp. chopped fresh chives

1. Wok-smoke and sear salmon (see Smoking Salmon in a Wok for our expert technique). Keep warm.

2. Cook potatoes in salted boiling water until tender. Drain. In a small saucepan over medium heat, cook cream, garlic, and butter until thickened, about 5 minutes. Mash potatoes. Add cream sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

3. In a medium skillet over high heat, sauté chanterelles for 1 minute. Add vinegar and cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in tomatoes and chives.

4. Serve salmon atop mashed potatoes, garnished with sautéed chanterelles.