SERVES 4

The sharp, salty flavor of these snails stimulates the thirst—making them a perfect meze. Snails are plentiful in Crete, easily gathered and available in local markets, but it's hard to find live ones in the U.S.

2 lbs. snails in their shells
6 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp. coarse salt
6 tbsp. red wine vinegar 
1 sprig fresh rosemary

1. Drain snails in their shells; rinse under cold water. Pour olive oil in a large skillet, sprinkle about salt evenly over oil, then arrange snails, opening side down, in skillet. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 5 minutes, shaking skillet over heat several times. Add red wine vinegar and rosemary. Simmer uncovered, stirring often, for 5 minutes more. Serve snails very hot with pan juices.