MAKES 32

Gougères (cheese puffs)—a traditional hors d'oeuvre served at French wine tastings—are enlivened here with a Southern twist.

FOR THE PUFFS:
8 tbsp. butter
1 1⁄2 tsp. salt
1 cup flour
4 eggs
1 tbsp. dijon mustard
1 tsp. dry mustard

FOR THE FILLING:
1⁄2 lb. boiled ham, finely chopped
1 cup raisins, finely chopped
2 shallots, peeled and minced
1⁄3 cup mayonnaise
1⁄3 cup cream cheese
1 tbsp. curry powder

1. For the puffs: Preheat oven to 350°. Put butter, salt, and 1 cup water into a medium pot and heat over medium heat until water boils and butter melts. Add flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until dough is thick and pulls away from side of pot, 1 1⁄2–2 minutes. Remove pot from heat.

2. Using an electric mixer, beat in eggs, 1 at a time, on medium speed, beating thoroughly after each addition. Add dijon and dry mustards and beat well.

3. Spoon 32 walnut-size mounds of dough onto parchment paper–lined baking sheets, about 1" apart. Bake until puffed and golden brown, about 45 minutes.

4. For the filling: Combine ham, raisins, shallots, mayonnaise, cream cheese, and curry powder in a bowl, then put into a pastry bag fitted with a plain round 1" tip.

5. Make an incision in side of each puff and pipe filling into each. Serve at room temperature.