(Ragù per i Maccheroni Pasticciati)

MAKES 2 1⁄2 CUPS

According to Lynne Rossetto Kasper's The Splendid Table (William Morrow, 1992), this flour-thickened, cinnamon-enhanced sauce, which was first cooked for the cardinal of Imola in the 18th century, is a "cross between a classic ragù alla bolognese and a 20th-century French brown sauce".

2 tbsp. lard
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 1⁄4 lbs. skirt steak, cut into a 1⁄4" dice
4 1⁄3 cups beef broth
1⁄4 tsp. ground cinnamon, plus more
   as needed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper,
   to taste
2 tbsp. flour
Homemade Tagliatelle

1. Heat lard and butter in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onions and skirt steak; cook, stirring constantly, until steak is well browned, 15–20 minutes.

2. Heat broth in a small saucepan over medium-low heat; keep hot. Add cinnamon to steak–onion mixture; season with salt and pepper. Add 1⁄2 cup broth to saucepan and reduce heat to medium; scrape up browned bits with a wooden spoon. Simmer until evaporated, 8–10 minutes. Add another 1⁄2 cup broth; simmer until sauce is almost dry, 8–10 minutes more. Add another 1⁄2 cup broth and the flour, stirring until completely incorporated, about 1 minute. Add remaining broth; bring to a simmer and cook, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until meat is very tender and sauce is thick, about 1 1⁄2 hours.

3. Season with salt and pepper and a sprinkle of cinnamon. Toss with fresh tagliatelle or the pasta of your choice. Serve with grated parmigiano-reggiano.