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Mexico: Viceroy Riviera Maya

On the resort-and-cruise-ship-dense Caribbean Coast of Mexico known as the Riviera Maya, the hotel Viceroy Riviera Maya is something special.
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Mexico: Viceroy Riviera Maya

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Address

Playa Xcalacoco, Riviera Maya 77710 Quintana Roo, Mexico 866/332-1672 viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/rivieramaya

Don't Miss

The Tuesday evening Antojeria at the hotel, a celebration of Mexican street food

Friday night beachside barbecues

A treatment at the Wayak Spa, tucked into the jungle-like setting among waterfalls and giant tropical trees

Amenities

  • 41 private beach-side villas /li>
  • 3 restaurants: La Marea, featuring upscale Mexican cuisine; Coral Grill & Bar, beachside Mexican-Mediterranean on wood-burning grills; and Library Lounge, which evokes the residential feel of a luxurious living room
  • 500-bottle wine cellar
  • "Dine Anytime, Anywhere" Policy
  • Casita Maya, a traditional Mayan outdoor kitchen offering cooking classesusing pit ovens
  • On-site spa services
  • Outdoor swimming pool and poolside bar
Within the resort-and-cruise-ship-dense stretch of Caribbean coast of Mexico known as the Riviera Maya, the Viceroy Riviera Maya is something special. Unlike the majority of resorts in the area—towering buildings that would not be out of place in Manhattan—the Viceroy, adjacent to the tiny village of Playa Xcalacoco, practically melts into the landscape. To get to my room—one of 41 individual spacious, stucco villas, some on the beach, others embedded in the jungle—I walk a winding trail through the jungle, past a waterfall that cascades from plush, moss-covered stones. The villa itself, 1,722 square foot, thatched roof structure, is airy and bright, and extends outdoors, where there's a personal plunge pool, and the ocean is mere yards away. And while I know there are 40 other such villas, all I can see, and hear, from my own, is the forest. Tropical birds sing in the trees and tiny iguanas run amok at breakneck speeds through the undergrowth.

Even if not for the extraordinary accommodations, the resort's food alone would make a stay here sublime. At the Café Coral, a beachside restaurant serving casual salads, ceviche and sandwiches, I scarf a chicken and chimmichurri sandwich on a pillowy bolillo roll beachside, and wash it down with a fragrant concoction of dark rum, peach, pineapple and grapefruit juices that the bartender invented on the spot. Throughout the year, there are weekly, food-centric events: Tuesday evenings are Antojeria, a street food festival (especially good is the molcajete de camarones, served in a mortar-and-pestle of volcanic rock and overflowing with jumbo shrimp, grilled nopales, silky guajillo chile sauce, and bacon, topped with melty asadero cheese); Friday nights are a beachside surf and turf feast, when an army of chefs emerge from the kitchen to prepare a surf and turf feast, including fresh-caught shrimp, scallops, and calamari, barbecued suckling pig and chimmichurri-dressed steaks.


But my favorite meal by far was at the resort's elegant restaurant La Marea. There, chef Jetzabel Rojas cooks with a lot of panache, merging Mayan and Mediterranean traditions: a velvety shrimp–tomato bisque is spiked with chile; a paella of clams and chorizo is laden with huitlacoche (an earthy-tasting, almost truffle-like corn fungus), and fragrant, black recede negro, a traditional Mayan paste of charred dried chiles, garlic, and spices. It's a meal well worth traveling for—I hope to make the trip again, someday. —Kellie Evans

In the Area

  • Ancient Mayan Ruins: Most who tour the Mexican Riviera visit the ruins at Chichen Itza or Tulum, but the site of Coba boasts the tallest pyramid on the Yucatán peninsula: Nohoch Mul is the equivalent of a 12 story building, and if you can manage the almost 45 degree climb to the top, you'll be rewarded with spectacular views. Arrange a visit though the hotel concierge.

  • Swim in the Multun-Ha: The rocky Yucatán Peninsula scattered with cenotes—vast sinkholes in the limestone bedrock that have filled with fresh water. The resort can take you to the Multun-Ha, a privately owned cenote with a 100-foot-plus stairway that descends to a serene pool of water where you can swim under cathedral-high stone ceilings.

  • Playa Del Carmen: Be sure to wander downtown Playa Del Carmen, the perfect place to go shopping for souvenirs like cinnamon-laden Mayan chocolate and hand-woven hammocks.

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