Mar 20, 2002
Leave a Comment

Unveiling a Masterpiece

The unwrapping of each layer is part of an elaborate culinary ceremony.
By Catherine Tillman
Print Save Article

1. The dark shell of mud enclosing beggar's chicken doesn't shatter; it's so thick that the first blow of the mallet, wielded by the guest of honor, makes only a small hole in the crust.

2. The waiter finishes the job, covering the shell with a large napkin, then whacking away until it crumbles into dusty chunks.

3. Next, he removes the napkin and peels back a  layer of sandpaper (used at the Man Wah as further insulation) to expose fine leaves of juice-soaked newsprint.

4. Beneath the newspaper, a layer of lotus leaves is revealed, cloaking the chicken and lending the dish an earthy aroma, redolent of tea. 

5. The debris of mud and paper is taken away, leaving a handsome dome, wrapped in the veined lotus leaves.

6. With fork and spoon, the waiter expertly winds back the leaves, releasing a spice-scented steam from the moist, succulent chicken.

7. In the final step before presentation of the dish, all the cartilage and bones are removed, leaving only a rich mixture of chicken and its vegetable stuffing.

8. The finished dish, worthy of the time and trouble it took to produce, may now be enjoyed with nothing more than a pair of chopsticks.

Your Comment

Please log in to leave a comment. Not a member yet? Sign up here.