Morel season is short, so the supply of fresh ones is of necessity limited. But dried morels are always available. The best come from the Pacific Northwest, where they're gathered in remote regions and often dried on site. Look for whole mushrooms, free of worm holes. Soaking in hot water for ten minutes plumps them to close to their original shape and texture. At up to $125 a pound, they're not cheap, but a few go a long way. One ounce of dried morels (about 15 medium mushrooms) yields three ounces of deep smoky flavor when rehydrated.