18 small green thai chiles, stemmed and roughly chopped
1⁄2 tsp. salt
3 scallions (green parts only), roughly chopped
1⁄2 cup lightly packed chopped cilantro leaves
1. For moderately hot results, put chiles and salt into a mortar (alternatively, use a small food processor). Working the pestle in a circular motion, crush chiles and salt against the sides of the mortar until a coarse paste forms.
2. Add scallions and cilantro and, switching to an up-and-down pounding motion, work the pestle to combine the ingredients well, transforming the mixture into a wet, rough-textured relish. Transfer to a small bowl and serve.
MAKES ABOUT 1⁄3 CUP