This dish, an adaptation of the one the author's aunt Judy used to cook, is at its best when made with extra-sweet corn. "It's crucial," Stewart says, "that the kernels be smashed and not simply cut, to make the corn mush creamy." Heat oven to 400°. Remove and discard the husks and silk from 12 ears of mature yellow corn. Set one end of a corn cutter into a large bowl and scrape each ear against its blade two or three times on all sides to remove all the kernels, working as close to the cob as possible. (Alternatively, use a knife to scrape the kernels from the cob.) Add salt to taste to the corn and stir to combine. Transfer the corn mixture to an 8" × 8" casserole dish and dot with 6 tbsp. butter cut into small pieces. Bake until pudding is bubbly and the top is golden brown, 40–45 minutes. Serves 4.