Saveur

View Gallery Photo: Laurie Smith

(Olan)

SERVES 6

This is one of the simplest recipes in Author Maya Kaimal's Aunty Kamala's repertoire, and it uses coconut three ways. See In the Kerala Kitchen, for information on Indian ingredients.

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, quartered lengthwise,
   and cut crosswise into 1⁄8" slices
3⁄4 cup fresh "second milk" coconut milk
   or 1⁄4 cup canned unsweetened coconut
   milk diluted with 1⁄2 cup water
   (see Coaxing the Coconut)
2 fresh hot green chiles (serrano or thai),
   split lengthwise just up to the stem
15 curry leaves
1⁄2 tsp. salt
2⁄3 cup cooked black-eyed peas
1⁄4 cup fresh "first milk" coconut milk
   or G cup canned unsweetened coconut milk
   (see Coaxing the Coconut)
2 tsp. coconut oil

1. Put cucumbers, "second milk" coconut milk, chiles, curry leaves, and salt in a medium saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, add black-eyed peas, and simmer until cucumbers are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes.

2. Add "first milk" coconut milk to the cucumber and peas, and bring just to a simmer, then remove from heat. Stir in coconut oil, and add salt to taste. Serve warm.

This article was first published in Saveur in Issue #45