Meat Loaves with Eggs and Cheese
SERVES 8 – 12
To make these loaves as light as those served at Da Giovanni in Trieste, handle the meat as gently (and as little) as possible while you mix and shape it.
3 small carrots, trimmed and peeled
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 rib celery, trimmed and finely chopped
Leaves from 3 sprigs rosemary
1 1/2 cups crushed tomatoes
1 1/2 lbs. ground beef
1 1/2 lbs. ground pork
4 oz. prosciutto, chopped
4 oz. sweet Italian sausage, removed from casing
4 oz. mortadella, chopped
4 eggs, beaten
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1/4 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano
1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs
Leaves from 8 sprigs parsley, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. ground oregano
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
3 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and quartered
1/2 cup finely grated montasio or asiago
3/4 cup tocai or other white wine
1. Finely chop one of the carrots and set aside. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat, add chopped carrots, onions, celery, and rosemary, and cook, stirring often, until soft, 10–15 minutes. Stir in tomatoes; transfer to a large baking dish and set aside. Meanwhile, put remaining 2 carrots into a small skillet of water and boil over high heat until just soft, 5–8 minutes. Drain, halve carrots lengthwise, and set aside.
2. Preheat oven to 325°. Mix beef, pork, prosciutto, sausage, and mortadella together in a bowl, then pass mixture through the medium-hole disk of a meat grinder into another bowl. Add beaten eggs, garlic, parmigiano, bread crumbs, parsley, 1 tbsp. salt, 1 tsp. pepper, oregano, and nutmeg to meat and gently mix with your hands until just combined.
3. Lay out two 15"-long sheets of heavy-duty foil on a clean surface. Put half of the meat mixture in center of each sheet of foil and gently shape each into a 10" × 8" rectangle lengthwise on the foil. Divide hard-cooked eggs between the rectangles, arranging them lengthwise down center of each. Divide boiled carrots between the rectangles, arranging them end to end alongside eggs. Sprinkle montasio over eggs and carrots. Fold meat up over eggs, carrots, and montasio lengthwise, completely encasing filling, and pinch seams and ends together to seal loaves shut. Holding long sides of foil with each hand, transfer meat loaves to baking dish, setting them side by side in baking dish on top of vegetables. Fold long sides of foil toward center of each meat loaf, leaving top and ends open so that meat loaf retains shape while cooking. Pour wine and 1/2 cup warm water into dish around meat loaves and bake for 1 hour.
4. Remove dish from oven and set aside for 10 minutes. Holding long sides of foil, lift meat loaves out of dish and carefully pour meat juices back into dish, leaving coagulated juices behind. Remove meat loaves from foil and transfer to a warm dish. Pass vegetables and meat juices through a food mill into a medium bowl, season to taste with salt and pepper, then spoon sauce over and around meat loaves in dish.