Naturally, learning all of this, we wanted in on the action. So we asked Damon Boelte, the bar director at the restaurant Prime Meats in Brooklyn, New York, to show us what he's doing with nutmeg right now. "I use it in quite a few drinks," he said, "most including rum, whiskey, citrus, and lots of bitters. Some of them are even beer or dessert wine based." He's attached a key ring to the end of his Microplane grater ("so the kitchen doesn't steal it") and keeps it hanging from the bar, always at the ready. Boelte tends to make cocktails with a sense of history as well as a sense of humor; when he walked us through the making of the six nutmeg cocktails that follow, the brandishing of the nutmeg grater brought a nice dash of drama, too. As Boelte put it, "The nutmeg lets you know that it's time to pay attention to what's in front of you."