Mar 10, 2009

Onions Three Ways

Each of these delicious preparations (from New York City's Gramercy Tavern) for the humble onion possesses a unique character. We think the puréed onions pair perfectly with seared scallops, and we love adding the pickled onions to tacos. As for the onion compote, we can't think of a better partner for pork chops.

FOR THE PURÉE:
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
15 cipollini onions, halved and
thinly sliced (or 10 oz. yellow onions)
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper,
to taste

FOR THE PICKLE:
1 star anise
1 cup white wine vinegar
2 tbsp. red verjus
1 tbsp. sugar
2 large red beets, peeled and thinly sliced crosswise
4 cipollini onions, thinly sliced crosswise into rings
(or 3 oz. yellow onions)
Kosher salt, to taste

FOR THE COMPOTE:
1/4 cup red wine
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
3 tbsp. beet cooking liquid
3 tbsp. port
2 tbsp. raspberry vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
Kosher salt, to taste

For the puree: Melt butter in a 2-qt. saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, 15 minutes. Add cream and 2 tbsp. water; cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are very tender, about 30 minutes. Transfer onion mixture to the bowl of a food processor, season with salt and pepper, and purée until smooth (sprinkle in a little more cream, if necessary); chill until ready to use.

For the pickle: In a 2-qt. saucepan, toast star anise over medium-high heat, swirling frequently, for 2 minutes. Add vinegar, verjus, sugar, beets, and 1/2 cup water to pan and bring to a boil. Strain liquid through a sieve into a large bowl, discarding solids. (Remove and set aside 1 tbsp. liquid for the onion pickle, if making.) Submerge onions in cooking liquid and season with salt. Cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

For the compote: Reduce wine in a 2-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat until 1 tbsp. remains. Pour wine reduction into a bowl and set aside; wipe out saucepan. Heat oil in saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 10 minutes. Add 1 tbsp. reserved beet cooking liquid (from compote recipe, above) and wine, along with the port, vinegar, and sugar; cook, covered and stirring occasionally, until onions are tender and deep red, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and let cool to room temperature.

SERVES 4