Sometimes bacalao (salt cod) is added to this home-style soup. Heat 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil in a pot over medium heat. Add 3 large sliced onions; cook until soft, 20–25 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer onions to a bowl; leave oil behind. Add 4 large yukon gold potatoes (3 lbs.), cut into 1 1⁄2" chunks, and cook until golden, 7–9 minutes. Add reserved onions, 8 stemmed seeded dried choricero peppers or new mexico chiles, 6 chopped leeks (white and light green parts only), 4 chopped carrots, 2 quartered medium tomatoes, 2 cups cubed calabaza squash, salt to taste, and 5 quarts water. Bring to a boil. Reduce to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Serves 8–10.