Then, as though a dish
of meltingly tender cabbage were not soothing enough for a cool night,
you take a ration of soft, creamy, pungent cheese - Molly Stevens calls
for Saint-Marcellin, but I used Delice de Bourgogne, a triple-cream -
and cut it into bits and nubs, which you then scatter over the top.
Then you return said cabbage to the oven for another ten minutes, just
long enough to melt the cheese and make the kitchen smell outrageously
savory and complex, causing everyone present, including you, to stare
impatiently at the oven door.