Spaghetti all'Amatriciana
Chef Rachael Grossman of Artigiano in Portland produces a flawless version of this Italian pasta classic, which uses a slow-simmered tomato sauce infused with lots of bacon. This recipe first appeared in our June/July 2012 issue along with Dana Bowen's story Food of the People
Enlarge Image
Credit: Todd Coleman
INGREDIENTS
12 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut crosswise into ¼" strips2 tbsp. unsalted butter
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
Kosher salt, to taste
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 sprig rosemary
1 sprig sage
2 tbsp. red wine
1 (28-oz). can whole, peeled tomatoes in juice, crushed by hand
2 tbsp. olive oil
2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
1 tsp. crushed red chile flakes
1 lb. dried spaghetti
Finely grated pecorino, to garnish
Thinly sliced parsley, to garnish
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Heat bacon in a 6-qt. saucepan over medium heat, and cook until its fat renders and bacon is crisp, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain; set aside. Add butter to pan, and then add carrots and onion; season with salt, and cook, stirring, until soft, about 6 minutes. Add half the garlic and rosemary and sage, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add wine, and cook, stirring, until evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, and bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium-low and cook, partially covered and stirring occasionally, until reduced and thickened, about 2 hours. Remove and discard rosemary and sage, and transfer sauce to a blender; puree and then return to pan. Stir in ¾ of the reserved bacon, along with remaining garlic and oil, pepper, and chile flakes; keep warm.2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, and add spaghetti; cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain pasta and add to pan with sauce; toss to coat. Divide pasta and sauce among serving bowls and garnish each bowl with remaining reserved bacon, pecorino, and parsley.
I have no doubt that this recipe would produce a fine and savory dish. But I wonder if the folks of Amatrice actually use such a massive amount of cured pork. Since Amatrice has historically been a poor region of Italy, rich only in imagination and culinary talent, I think a local version might be a bit less costly.
But for here, now, this recipe spells delight.
interesting dish. I will have no problem or reservations cooking this. Looking forward!!!
And yes, sage has sprigs. They are the velvety smaller leaves at the tips of the plant branches, milder than the more mature leaves.
Dumb?? In my opinion this recipe is particularly genius.
I made this tonight. Exactly to recipe. I have eaten surely at least 2000 bowls of past in my 41 years. This was, unquestionably, the greatest. I ate it as slowly as possible.
Change nothing. Do EXACTLY as told. Forego your weeping for the poor exploited peasants of Amatrice. And eat this very slowly. It is heavy, you will only get through one good sized bowl. Do not wolf it down. Savour. Yes, be a Saveur.
I'm grateful to Saveur for creating this recipe in such a way that I could make it. I couldn't have found or afforded guanciale.
You can read my full review of this recipe at Taking On Magazines here: http://bit.ly/MWGTQm