Leaving Ängavallen for our final destination Malmö, we stopped for a coffee and a sandwich at the Biärsjö family's Hallongården, the Raspberry Farm. In Swedish there is an expression for a place that you hold dear. It's called a smultronställe, or "wild strawberry place," and the Biärsjö family endearingly refers to their farm as a "raspberry place," as they've sought to create the kind of farm where city people feel welcome to come and spend an afternoon sitting amongst the raspberry rows. Their plan worked: the day before we arrived, the baptism of their baby goats drew a crowd of 200! On our visit, the goats were romping all over the place, children were petting the tiny baby chickens, and we weren't the only ones enjoying a glass of Kerstin Biärsjö's award-winning raspberry nectar.
After bidding the Biärsjö's adieu, we finally arrived in the heart of Malmö and parked in front of Malmö Castle, a hulking brick structure from the 1530s that now houses the Malmö Museum. Then we followed the well-worn path to the café at Slottsträdgården, where one of Sweden's celebrated television chefs Tareq Taylor is making way for a massive farm-to-table effort. On an average weekend, 1,500 people might be served out of its tiny kitchen using only local ingredients. As we sat in the greenhouse, I watched as Taylor picked up a dish here and a napkin there, pausing to chat with old ladies and kids. All hands on deck here!
After earning his wings in fine dining, Tareq Taylor wanted to strip away all the fuss and get back to what was important: the ingredients. The menu changes often, taking its lead from whatever the garden offers: rhubarb, Jerusalem artichokes, fennel, cabbage, carrots, celery and more. A salad comes with every meal here, like the mix of fried capers, pickled onions, golden beets, and toasted almonds that I received. We also ordered pork belly, which came on a bed of parsley root purée with cracklings and mustard, as well as with a side of potatoes drenched in butter and finely chopped nettles that Taylor had picked nearby.
After lunch we checked into our rooms at Hotel Mäster Johan in the old city, we took a stroll around the Stortorget and Lilla torget, where we sat people-watching and enjoyed a cold glass of Carlsberg.
After so much eating out, we spent our last night dining at home. Well, at Cia's home anyway! There's a new movement that enables travelers to get a home-cooked meal from a local resident. For the first time, we got to see inside a Swedish home, after riding the elevator to the top floor of a beautiful art deco apartment building. And over a dinner of beautifully-cooked beef tenderloin with root vegetables, we were given all kinds of insider's tips on what to see and do in the area. If only we didn't have to leave…
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Bodarp plats 45
231 94 Trelleborg
tel: (to Johan Biärsjö's mobile phone) +46 (0)706-42 38 68
tel: +46 (0)40-30 40 34
Hotel Mäster Johan
Mäster Johansgatan 13
211 21 Malmö
tel: +46 (0)40-664 64 00
A standard double here costs approximately 1,300 SEK a night.
A Slice of Swedish Hospitality
This fledgling program pairs you, the traveler, with real-live Swedes so you can experience a dinner at home.
tel: +46 (0)738- 52 75 34
Volvo Overseas Delivery
For more information Volvo Overseas Delivery.
tel: (800) 631 1667
Tourism in Skåne
For more information on traveling in Skåne.