The Guide: Transylvania
Transylvania is a four-hour drive from Bucharest, Romania's capital. For help planning your trip, contact Romania Tourism (romaniatourism.com) and the Adept Foundation (fundatia-adept.org).
Where to StayCasa Wagner Piaţa Cetăţii 7, Sighişoara (40/265/506-014). Rates $120 double. On the main square in Sighişoara, this pleasant hotel is a good base for exploring the Saxon villages of Transylvania.
Count Kálnoky's Estate 186 Strada Principală, Miklósvár (40/742/202-586). Rates: $190 double. At these beautiful guesthouses, meals run to traditional dishes like ciorbă de perisoare (pork-and-rice meatball soup).
Mihai Eminescu Trust Guesthouses 10 Strada Cojocarilor, Sighişoara (40/754/212-372). Rates: $40 per person. The MET rents cottages in rural villages, with the option to order in meals from home cooks, or to dine with local families.
Where to EatCasa cu Cerb Strada Şcolii 1, Sighişoara (40/265/774-625). Moderate. The "House of the Stag" serves excellent Romanian dishes, including mămăligă (a coarse polenta) and stewed chicken.
Gerda Gherghiceanu's Farmhouse Restaurant Strada Principala 22, Viscri (40/741/009-889). Moderate. Gherghiceanu serves terrific home-style Saxon cooking—crêpes with her own jams, hearty stews—in the courtyard of her farmhouse.
Unglerus Restaurant Strada Decembrie 1, Biertan (40/269/806-699). Moderate. This restaurant is famous for its Biertan platter, a spread of skinless sausages called mititei and other grilled meats.