This classic cocktail is one Saveur executive editor Todd Coleman was inspired to drink thanks to Dr. Thomas More, hero of Walker Percy's novel Love in the Ruins. The key to the cocktail's rich texture is the egg white: be sure to use a very fresh, high-quality egg, and to shake it with cracked ice rather than whole cubes to help with the aeration.
2 ounces dry gin 1 egg white ½ tablespoon superfine sugar ½ ounce lemon juice 2 ounces soda water
Fill a cocktail shaker with cracked ice and add gin, egg white, sugar, and lemon. Shake vigorously for at least 60 seconds (the egg white should become fully incorporated with the other ingredients, and aerate to produce a frothy overall texture). Strain into a highball glass, top with soda water, stir gently, and serve.