WHERE TO EAT
25 de Mayo 756 (54/11/4313-6587). Expensive. Clubby and elite, Sabot remains one of the grandest guardians of the Argentine long lunch.
Cochabamba 3700 (54/11/4931-3584). Moderate. The presence of the eponymous Marta adds charm to every meal at this small restaurant, which specializes in juicy beef empanadas.
Carlitos de la Boca
Brandsen 699 (54/11/4362-2433). Expensive. Known to locals as Don Carlos, this tiny spot offers beloved Italian-Argentine dishes of broccolini, charcuterie, grilled meats, and pasta.
Gorriti 3902 (54/11/4862-9905). Inexpensive—Moderate. Find everyday Argentine fare like sautéed veal and rice at this relaxed neighborhood restaurant.
Av. Rivadavia 3899 (54/11/4958-7387). This elegant café bakes fine pastries to go with their cortados, all stylishly presented on silver platters.
Sandwichería Don Pepe
Defensa 129 (54/11/4343-9687). Inexpensive. Downtown workers jam Pepe's lunch counter daily to make quick work of huge steak sandwiches and egg pies.
WHERE TO STAY
Guatemala 4870 (54/11/4774-0505). $115–$245 for a double. An old townhouse refurbished with modern décor reflects the eclectic style of the city.
Soler 5862 (54/11/3220-6800). $170—$450 for a double. With wet bars and big comfortable sofas, each room at this luxurious boutique hotel feels like a suite.
Carlos Calvo 369 (54/11/4300-6886). $140–$400 for a double. This glamorous converted mansion has indoor waterfalls, a rooftop lap pool, and steam baths.