In summer, I long for nothing more than tomatoes, unadorned, ripe, and juicy. Lingering over the final panzanella of the season, I wonder how I'll survive without the fruit that has sustained me through summer. But as the heirlooms disappear from the market and the air turns cool and crisp, my cravings begin to change. Tomatoes are still on my mind, but instead of picking up fresh ones from the market, I stock my pantry with cans of San Marzanos in anticipation of the countless evenings I will return home desiring nothing more than tomatoey goodness to coat my bones and fortify me against autumn and winter winds.
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