Let us sing the praises of good lettuce. Not arugula, or watercress, or any other dainty-leafed green (though I love them all), but the irreplaceable watery crunch of a sturdy head of lettuce. The foundation of salads from Caesar to Cobb, the sweet crunch on a sandwich or a Tex–Mex taco, and an essential ingredient in any number of other dishes — lettuce wraps, or an Asian-style lettuce stir-fry — too often we take lettuce's many gifts for granted. In May and June, with the farmers' markets just beginning to explode with spring greens, it's the perfect time to renew your commitment to the crisper's favorite vegetable.
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