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Chicken Liver Pâté

My family kicks off every Christmas Eve with my sister's chicken liver pâté, setting upon it like savages, schmearing the velvety stuff onto toast points. This ritual dates back to the 1980s, when my sister was first living on her own. Having discovered that chicken livers could be had dirt cheap, she prepared them in every way she could, including this one, a standby of French housewives and midcentury American ladies' luncheons alike. Puréeing the cooked livers along with a little brandy, a lot of butter, and a few other things transforms the humblest of ingredients into something magnificent. —Beth Kracklauer
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