
I'm zipping down a highway through the Tuscan countryside, the scene outside a postcard-worthy landscape of curvy green hills punctuated by tall, lean cypress trees; I can hardly temper my excitement. "A castle!" I exclaim to the driver; then, trying the broken Italian I've been learning in anticipation of this visit, "Il mio primero castello!" (My first castle!) Oh sure, I'd visited palaces and chateaux, but I'd never
stayed in a castle. I had hopes the experience would satisfy every childhood fancy. I wasn't disappointed.
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