One of January's great pleasures is the abundance of slim, mild leeks that take over at the market. Every year I'll pick up a bundle to make a potato-leek soup or to slice into an omelet or quiche, but this year, the leeks at my local grocer were so perfect, so lovely, that I didn't want to adulterate their flavor within another dish. Instead, I picked up nearly 40 stalks and a round of goat cheese and made one of my favorite recipes: a deceptively simple showstopper of a terrine—my adaptation of a Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall adaptation of a Marco Pierre White recipe—in which trimmed, cooked leeks are layered with a creamy cheese mixture in a loaf pan and left to set overnight in the fridge, with ten to fifteen pounds of weight pressing down on it.
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