YIELDS 3 QUARTS

French stocks fall into two categories, white and brown. Brown stocks, the basis for many classic sauces and stews, are made by roasting bones and vegetables until dark brown, before moistening.

8 lbs. cracked veal bones
3 carrots, peeled and chopped
3 onions, peeled and chopped
3 stalks celery, chopped
2 tbsp. tomato paste
2 cups white wine or water
2 plum tomatoes, chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 dried bay leaves
10 black peppercorns
3 sprigs parsley

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Place veal bones in a large roasting pan. Roast bones until they begin to brown, 1–1 1⁄2 hours, then add carrots, onions, celery, and tomato paste. Mix well and continue roasting until vegetables and bones are well-browned, about 40 minutes.

2. Place roasting pan on top of the stove and transfer bones and vegetables to a large stockpot. Heat roasting pan over medium-high heat, add wine or water, then scrape up browned bits on bottom of pan. Simmer for about 1 minute, then add deglazing liquid to stockpot.

3. Add tomatoes, garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns, parsley, and 16 cups water. Simmer over medium heat, skimming occasionally, for 3 hours.

4. Strain stock, chill, and skim off fat. Stock can be stored in the refrigerator in a sealed container for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 6 months.